Panasonic GH3 for photography (in 2024).

In my last post I discussed my recent purchase of the Lumix GH3 for shooting video. This will be its main purpose - in conjunction with my Lumix S5 - to supply video and photos for a Real Estate firm. But it will also act as a back-up of sorts, if anything should happen (please no, touch wood) to the S5 while on a shoot. So the IQ (image quality) needs to be 'good enough' to take over photo duty if required (again, please no....!).

Of course whenever you get any new gear, you need to test it out - right?! Nobody in their right mind would take a newly acquired piece of equipment and try it out for the first time on a shoot - least of all an actual paid gig! No - I thought not.

With this in mind, I loaded up my Lowepro backpack with my Lumix S5 and S 20-60mm f/3.5-5.6 attached, and the Lumix GH3 with the G 12-60mm f/3.5-5.6 Power OIS, and headed out the door this past weekend (as I write this).

It had been a while since I had been to Dorothy Falls at Kaniere, so that was my destination. I got up at stupid-o'clock on Saturday morning so I could get to the falls around dawn. Turned out this was a little too early, so I wandered down to Lake Kaniere to see if I could capture a few sunrise photos.

As you can see from the image on the right, reducing the exposure to retain highlight detail in the sky (very important with digital sensors) has meant that the landscape itself is underexposed. Looking at this image back home on the computer, I didn't hold out much hope of getting any detail or definition in the trees around the lake, especially since this is from a micro four thirds sensor. 

Lake Kaniere Dawn.  Lumix GH3 with Lumix G 12-60mm Power OIS. f/8 @ 1/50th, ISO 200

Having owned, and used, 16MP Olympus micro four thirds cameras for many years, I shouldn't have been so pessimistic. I've written myself, on several occasions in this very blog, that the ability to extract information from the micro four thirds sensor is actually quite staggering. Micro four thirds sensors are capable of capturing excellent dynamic range - the GH3 itself is capable of around 12.5 stops of dynamic range. 

In comparison, the S5's 24MP sensor is rated by DXO of 14.5 stops. Two stops is certainly significant, but this is a considerably newer - full frame - sensor. 12.5 stops on the GH3 is very, very respectable, and allows it to create images like the one above. What's more, the detail pulled out of the shadows is very clean and noise-free at the cameras native ISO of 200. A very good result indeed.

Dorothy Falls. Lumix GH3 with G 12-60mm. f/8 @ 1/3rd sec, ISO 200 + Polariser

I would have liked to have spent a bit more time exploring Lake Kaniere, but I was being swarmed and eaten alive by the (in)famous west coast sand fly. They like the taste of me unfortunately, and as soon as I set up my tripod I was surrounded by the little biting monsters! I took this as my que to head back to Dorothy Falls where, given the slightly cooler temperatures of the surrounding bush, the sand flies were thankfully (mostly) absent.

This allowed me to take my time, and take two shots of the same subject - one with the GH3 and one with the S5 - for 'comparisons' sake.

I've already discussed the dynamic range capabilities of both cameras, and this can be seen in the 100% crops above. The S5 retains detail in even the brightest areas of the waterfall, whereas the GH3 doesn't quite manage it. On both exposures I was very careful not to 'clip' the highlights, but the GH3 sensor just isn't capable of  retaining the extreme highlight detail. The full frame image is also very slightly 'crisper' than the micro four thirds one - again not surprising given the size and age advantage of the newer S5 full-frame sensor.

And yet, there's not a massive difference between the two - certainly not as much as some would have you believe there should be. I would take the S5's full-frame sensor over the GH3's micro four thirds - of course I would. But if you told me I had to use the 16MP GH3 from now on, it certainly wouldn't hold me back from making amazing images. And as a back-up to my S5, it'll do just fine.

Dorothy Falls Cascade. Lumix S5 with S 20-60mm. f/8 @ 1/2sec, ISO 200

Having just said that, I will admit to preferring to using the S5 over the GH3. For a start, the viewfinder on the GH3 leaves a lot to be desired. It's a little blurry around the edges for us glass-wearers, which makes composition a little tricky. Fortunately, when shooting video, I'll only be using the LCD screen which is perfectly fine to compose from. This was also the case for most of the morning while the GH3 was on a tripod. But take it off the tripod, use the viewfinder to compose and the picture taking experience is diminished somewhat.

I also prefer the weight, heft, and overall handling of the S5. The GH3 isn't bad in this respect, but the S5 is better (IMHO). The GH3 with battery grip weighs about the same as the S5 body. Add a lens to both of them and the weight is similar enough to not be a factor. But the S5 certainly feels better in my hand. That being said, the GH3 is probably the most comfortable micro four thirds camera I've ever used. Far better than the angular and retro inspired Olympus offerings like the OMD EM-5 and EM-1.

Cloud Cover. Panasonic Lumix GH3 with G 12-60mm f3.5-5.6 OIS. f/7.1 @ 1/800th, ISO 200

As someone who has had a lot of experience shooting micro four thirds - especially with Olympus - the Olympus vs Panasonic question is an interesting one. I can see why Olympus embraced their heritage with the retro OM look to their cameras, as much as I can see how it made sense for Panasonic to pursue a more traditional DSLR style to their cameras.

Personally, even though I like the look of the Olympus cameras, I do prefer the Panasonic's DSLR style ergonomics and handling. BUT.... I think that Olympus make the better cameras in terms of functions, engineering and technology. Especially when it comes to the Panasonic's Achilles heal - auto focus. Not that Panasonic's contrast-based autofocus is unusable. For stills photography it's actually very good. But video - well that's another story. Needless to say, I think I'll be using a lot of manual focusing with the GH3. And that's absolutely fine.

Dorothy Falls, Kaniere. Lumix GH3 with G 12-60mm. f/8 @ 1/2sec, ISO 200. + Polariser

Is the 16MP Panasonic GH3 micro four thirds camera a twelve year old obsolete dinosaur that should be dismissed in 2024? No - of course not! In fact, it would be an amazing camera to give to someone who wants to learn photography and grow in their hobby. With great ergonomics, a very capable image sensor, and very good IQ - not to mention excellent video features (if you are happy to focus manually) - the GH3 was Panasonic's flagship camera when it was released in 2012. It was an amazing camera then, and it's a fantastic camera now. Not state-of-the-art, granted. But you're not paying state-of-the-art prices. And yet what you get for your money is above and beyond what you should expect at this price point. Cheap as chips, but oh-so capable. I reckon the GH3 will make a perfect video camera, and an ideal back-up for my S5.

The Lumix GH3 joins my Panasonic family

I have written recently about my mini-resurgence in photography, brought about by my getting involved in Real Estate photography. I've supplied photos and video for a few more properties since then - enough to formulate some ideas about how I can refine the process going forward.

Before going out on my last gig, it suddenly dawned on me that I was only going with one camera. That's something I would never do if I was shooting a wedding. And while taking photos of houses isn't exactly a one-off event, going back another day because your gear failed and you don't have a back-up is hardly a good look.

Also, as stated above, I have to supply both stills and video. So on each shoot I find myself juggling back and forth between video and photo settings on the one camera. It would, I decided, be better to have two cameras (back-up, back-up, back-up) - one for stills and one for video. 

Another S5 would be lovely - but even second hand it's out of my price range at the moment. So I started looking around for a good second body, video-centric camera. Enter the Panasonic Lumix GH3.

My 'new' Lumix GH3 with 12-60mm

Now before you say anything, let me explain. Yes, I know it's a twelve year old camera. Yes, I know it's micro four thirds and not full frame. And yes I know there will be a difference in image quality. But, as I've explained, this will be my video camera. And as a video camera, shooting 1920x1080p @ 50fps, it will be perfect for what I need (don't need 4k).

The lens I have with it is the Lumix 12-60mm f/3.5-5.6 Power OIS - a very good kit zoom with a decent range. At the wide end it gives me 24mm (full-frame equivalent) - not as wide as my S5's 20-60mm coverage, but again, this will be for video, not stills. And if all goes well with the Real Estate photography, then I could maybe add a 7-14mm f/4 in the future? But for now, for video, the 12-60mm should do just fine.

I also managed to find a brand new battery grip for the GH3 at a price I couldn't refuse. I'm a big battery grip fan, and may even end up getting one for the S5 - although the ergonomics on the S5 are already great, and the battery grip would add more weight. But on a 'smaller' camera like the GH3, the battery grip enhances the ergonomics, and a little more heft is a good thing when trying to keep things stable hand-held. Because that's one down-side of getting a twelve year old camera - the body doesn't have in-built stabilisation. Although as noted earlier, the 12-60mm lens does. Times have, however, moved on. And the stabilisation of the S5 is notably (or should that be substantially) better.

As for the GH3 camera body itself - well, lets just say I can't quite believe my luck. I got it for a very good price ($250 for the body and two batteries), and when it arrived it looked brand new. And I mean absolutely brand new! Not a scratch, mark, smudge, smear or fingerprint on it anywhere!! It's the newest looking twelve year old camera I've ever seen. 

A quick Google search showed me how to find the shutter actuations on a GH3, and when I had gone through the process, I could not believe the result. I still can't. But, as you can plainly see for yourself, the camera has only taken a grand total of 97 photos! 97!!!! Un-be-lievable! So even though it may have been released in 2012, my particular copy of the GH3 is basically brand-spanking-new!

I have avoided video for most of my career - although I did immerse myself in it somewhat when I was running my (brief ) YouTube Channel. How ironic is it, then, that I have specifically purchased a camera exclusively for video use! But this is also part of the reasoning behind getting an older camera like the GH3 (apart from the consideration of budget of course).

The Panasonic GH range is known as being video-centric, and the GH3 is still talked about by videographers as a good 'budget' film makers option. Yet because of its age, it isn't packed with too much technology as to be overwhelming for a newbie like me. The menus are simple to navigate, the options are reasonably straight forward (unlike those on my S5), and the actual process of shooting video on the GH3 is fairly straight forward. Even I should be able to manage it 😀

So I now have a micro-four-thirds camera in my arsenal again. And trust me, that's no bad thing. If Panasonic's iteration of the 16MP micro four thirds sensor and IQ is anything like Olympus's (and I have no doubt it will be), then the images (and video) that come out of the Lumix GH3 will be fantastic! Can't wait to take it out and clock up some more actuations on that shutter!

OM Systems OM-5. Ho hum.....

Despite my recent (and not so recent) plethora of posts on the Sony a-mount, I am still an Olympus micro four thirds shooter. My camera is the venerable Olympus E-M1, with a couple of Panasonic kit lenses. So I am, to a certain extent, invested in the Olympus micro four thirds eco-system (although for how much longer I'm not too sure).

Earlier this year, OM System - Olympus' new owners - introduced their flagship model, the OM-1. There was, of course, much wailing and gnashing of teeth from the internet trolls who hated on the camera. But honestly, I thought it was a pretty solid release and a worthy successor to the E-M1 line. I wrote about it in a blogpost here.

Now, towards the end of 2022, OM System have introduced their second camera to the fold - the OM-5 (surprise, surprise).

Unlike the OM-1, which still bares the Olympus name on the front, the OM-5 is the first to be branded with OM System. And fair enough too.

But apart from this visual clue as to change of ownership, what else have OM System done to the existing E-M5 Mk3 that it replaces in the lineup?

Well, not much - at all - if we are being brutally honest.

Other than the name-change, the OM-5 and E-M5 Mk3 bodies are exactly the same. Nothing has changed. Same design and button layout, same sensor, same AF system. Same battery. Same accessories. Same-old same-old. It even has the old menu system and doesn't benefit from the upgraded menu that appeared in the OM-1. Bugger!

Ok, perhaps I'm being a little disingenuous (maybe)? It does have a new image processor - the same one as in the E-M1 Mk3, which allows for some extra computational power not before seen in the E-M5s. This includes Starry Sky AF, hand-held hi-res shooting and built-in 4 stop Live ND (the E-M1 Mk3 with the same processor can do 5 stops).

The OM-5 also has better weather resistance than the E-M5 Mk3 - with the same IP53 rating as the OM-1, as well as slightly better (as in 15% better) image stabilisation. But really, for the OM-5's target market, the weather sealing and image stabilisation was perfectly adequate as it was. Still, a little better is preferable I guess?

In a nutshell, the new OM-5 is an E-M5 Mk3 with Starry Sky AF, hand-held hi-res mode and a 4-stop Live ND. Yawn...

Unfortunately it could have been (and I would argue should have been) so much more! Where's the upgraded menu system already incorporated into the OM-1? It would have been such a simple thing to implement. Why not dual card slots (finally) in a 5 series camera? Or a joystick controller on the rear of the camera? Do something to make it look like you tried to give us a different camera!

But no. It really does feel (and look) like OM System really couldn't be bothered. Which is sad. And a little worrying.

Look, I appreciate that this has felt like a bit of a dump on OM System. And maybe it is? But I don't do it simply to be mean. I'm rooting for them. Really, I am. And I thought that their OM-1 was an excellent introduction - I really did. The OM-5 though.... not so much.

If this is your first ever OM System (Olympus) micro four thirds camera, then you'll absolutely love it! And please don't get me wrong, it will be a great camera. But if you were looking to upgrade from the E-M5 Mk3, then the OM-5 isn't the camera for you. A lightly used OM-1 would be a far better upgrade path. Or even a new E-M1 Mk3. That would be where I would put my money.

Messing around with macro

I've been on holiday for most of the start of January 2022 (yay!), spending time in Christchurch, house (and dog) sitting for my sister-in-law and her family. Since we were staying for a while, we took a lot of stuff with us (the golf clubs and trundler came), so I decided not to take both the Olympus and Sony camera systems I'm currently using.

I would have opted for the Sony a99 and 50mm macro - since I'm trying to make macro my new thing - but I also knew that I was going to get the opportunity to shoot a family portrait while we were over in Christchurch (of said sister-in-law's family). So I opted for the Olympus E-M1 with 12-35mm f2.8 instead.

Oh Bee-have! Olympus E-M1 with Lumix 12-35mm. f/4 @ 1/320th, ISO 200

The Panasonic Lumix 12-35mm has no psuedo-macro features like those found on the Olympus 12-50mm EZ lens, and it's closest focusing distance is only 25cm. So not a fantastic macro performer. All the photos you see in this post, taken on the 12-35mm, are severe crops from the original shot, so that the subject (the 2cm bee) can fill-the-frame. This means that the original 12 megapixel file gets reduced to only around 1 megapixel with the final crop. Not ideal. But good enough when viewed on-line. 

Hard at Work. Olympus OM-D E-M1 with Lumix 12-35mm f/2.8. f/5 @ 1/640th, ISO 400

And I must say, that overall I'm very pleased with the final results (despite the small file size). I spent a very pleasant hour in a park in Rangiora, chasing bees around the flower gardens, and came away with some half-decent images. The E-M1 was quick to focus, using the central focusing point in single-autofocus mode, and simply firing away with reasonable shutter speeds, hoping to freeze the action (boy do bees move fast).

The original capture of the above crop is shown on the left, to give an indication of how much cropping has taken place. And yes, it is a lot. I'm not going to be printing any of these at  A3 (or probably even at A4) sizes anytime soon.

This is certainly one of the down-sides to using a smaller micro four thirds sensor with a 'standard' lens and trying to come up with decent 'macro' looking images. Really you're just hoping for an exceptionally sharp result that you can then blow up to exorbitant proportions and pass-off as a macro image.

Having said all that, as I commented earlier, I am reasonably happy with the results. The Panasonic Lumix 12-35mm f2.8 is a very sharp lens, so if you nail focus you can expect some very good results. And the benefit of using a smaller micro four thirds sensor when close-focusing is the greater depth of field you get with smaller apertures. f/4 on the E-M1 gives an equivalent dof of f/8 with full-frame, but allows for the extra light, and faster shutter speeds. So that's a win.

'As busy as a....' Olympus E-M1 with Lumix 12-35mm. f/5 @ 1/1000th, ISO 400

To get the bee as sharp as possible from such a big enlargement, I've opted for some selective sharpening techniques (just on the in-focus areas of the bee itself). It's a simple technique, but I find it very effective. And the best thing about it is that it is infinitely controllable, and selective.

Duplicate the original image in Photoshop (Ctrl+J), and then apply a High Pass Filter on the duplicate layer (Filter/Other/High Pass) with a radius of about 2. The image with turn grey, with a faint embossed outline. This is what you want. The magic happens in the next two steps.

In the blending mode for the grey layer, choose either Hard Light or Vivid Light. Then add a layer mask and fill the mask with black. This effectively hides the sharpening that you've applied with the blending mode. Choose a soft brush, make sure that the colour is white, and then paint over the areas where you want to reveal the sharpening. You can build this sharpening up gradually over different areas by lowering the opacity of the brush, and you can also lower the opacity of the layer if you feel that the final result is still too strong? And there you go - a nice sharp bee without adding any sharpness or artifacts to the background.

Time for a rest. Sony a99 with Minolta 50mm macro. f/5 @ 1/640th, ISO 400

My final image was taken just recently, once we got back from our trip to Christchurch and were on a local bush walk. This time I did decide to take the Sony a99 and dedicated 50mm macro instead. 

The difference in file size is day and night. Because I was able to use the dedicated macro lens, and get in fairly close to the dragonfly, there is almost no cropping required from the original file. I could print this A3 no problem.

Unfortunately, it's a bit of a grab shot, and I used autofocus, which locked on to the dragonfly's back and didn't quite nail critical focus on the head. In that regards, it's a failure as a macro image. Using the 50mm macro on the full-frame camera has meant that I had to get in very close to the insect - too close for it's comfort - and it flew away fairly quickly. A 100mm macro would afford a little more 'breathing' space, and that's certainly what I would opt for if I was to get a dedicated macro lens for my E-M1 (the 60mm Olympus macro is a 120mm full-frame equivalent field of view).

Still, it's an ok image - especially when viewed on-line - and it's still all a learning curve for me and macro. I'm getting the feeling that you have to shoot A LOT of images just to nail one or two keepers, especially when small flying insects are involved!?

All-in-all some OK early attempts, and lots of learning for the future. That's got to be worth my while wouldn't you say?

Possible gear for macro

In my last post I discussed my recently discovered enthusiasm for fungi (and therefore macro) photography. I also mentioned that I had briefly dabbled in this very genre last year - first with the Sony a99 and then with my Olympus OM-D E-M1.

Fungi photography with the Olympus OM-D E-M1

I still have both systems available to me, so now that I have decided to pursue this style of photography a bit more seriously in 2022, I have a few decisions to make around the type of gear I will need going forward.

First option is to stick with my micro four thirds system, and add to it, to cover macro photography. To do this 'seriously', I would be looking at purchasing the Olympus 60mm f2.8 macro lens.

By all accounts (I've never even held one), the M Zuiko 60mm macro lens is a stellar lens, offering waterproofing and 1:1 magnification. It certainly looks the part - is apparently tack sharp (I don't doubt it) - and would balance perfectly on my E-M1.

Olympus do offer a 30mm f3.5 macro lens as well, but it's not weather sealed, doesn't go to 1:1 magnification - and is a 60mm equivalent full-frame focal length, which isn't as conducive to shooting skittery insects (since you have to get physically closer with the lens). On the positive side, it's a bit cheaper than the 60mm ($450NZ for the 30mm and $600NZ for the 60mm) - but that seems to me to be the only real positive. I'd rather spend the extra for the 60mm (120mm full frame focal length equivalent) than 'settle' for the 30mm and wish I had the 60mm, especially if I am really serious about pursuing macro fungi photography.

The second option is to move to the Sony A-mount system, since I already have access to a 50mm macro for Sony A-mount (it's actually a Minolta AF lens), as well as a few other lenses. The Sony a99 I have at the moment is being borrowed from a friend, together with the 50mm macro, a fisheye, standard zoom and wide angle zoom - so I've got the lenses pretty well covered. I will have to give the a99 back at some stage, but I'm pretty sure I can keep the 50mm macro long-term, since I know the guy I borrowed it from also has a 100mm macro that he uses instead.

If I sold my E-M1 with all accessories and lenses, I could possibly get about $1k (maybe). With that sort of money I could pick up a used Sony SLT 65v or a55 and have a decent chunk of change left over for spare batteries and other accessories if required.

This option has some appeal, not withstanding the fact that the dedicated 50mm macro would get me up and running straight away with a macro lens. If I sold my Olympus gear, I would actually end up in the black, even after purchasing a Sony body. Whereas if I have to wait to be able to afford an Olympus 60mm lens - even secondhand (if one comes up for sale) - it will probably be 2024 before I can actually afford one! Damn...

There is, however, a third option. I already have the a-mount 50mm macro lens - why don't I just adapt it to fit the Olympus E-M1? A mount adapter like the one shown here, will cost me around $45NZ - and viola, a dedicated macro lens for my E-M1.

Yes, this means that the macro lens will be manual focus only - but that's par for the course with macro photography anyway. So no great loss there. And, when fitted to my micro four thirds camera, the Minolta 50mm macro lens becomes a 100mm macro lens focal length equivalent - again great news for a comfortable distance to subject when shooting. So option three is sounding like a win-win.

It also means that I can continue to use my E-M1, which has a whole host of advantages when using it for macro photography. There is greater depth of field when using the smaller sensor - which is helpful for keeping very small areas in sharp focus at lower apertures. It has crazy-good in-body image stabilisation - again very helpful when shooting insects handheld. The body is weather sealed (excellent when out in damp forest conditions), it's very light-weight and portable (never a bad thing), has focus peaking and manual focus magnification aids - and also has built-in focus bracketing and focus stacking - in camera! This camera was built for macro photography! Are you serious!!!! Option three baby! I love option three!

In all seriousness, sticking with the Olympus E-M1 and adapting the Minolta 50mm macro to it does seem like the perfect solution - at least until I can afford that 60mm M Zuiko. For $45NZ I'll be up and running with an excellent macro system, and I may even find that I don't need the 60mm Olympus lens at all?

It will also mean that I can use the Mecablitz flashgun I have for the Olympus in an off-camera wireless flash setup, or I could keep it even simpler and use the Godox LED cube (pictured opposite). Or both.

I've looked into purchasing the a-mount to micro 4/3 adapter from a local retailer, and they can have one for me by the end of February. In the meantime, I still have the Sony a99 and 50mm Minolta macro lens, and I'll  use that combination until the adapter for the E-M1 arrives. That will give me a month to see if I really am serious about this macro-fungi thing - and a month to fall in love with the Sony A-Mount system and change my mind about staying with Olympus! 😉  Me - change my mind? Never!

Panasonic Lumix G 45-150mm f/4-5.6 lens review

As a landscape photographer, I have a tendency to shoot all my images at the wide-angle end of the focal range. When I'm photographing at a lake, a waterfall, a beach, or a sunset, I'm usually trying to fit a decent amount of the scene into the frame. As such, my Lumix 12-35mm f/2.8 lens will spend 95% of its life firmly attached to my camera (until such time as I can afford a 7-14mm f/4).

But what about the other 5% of the time? Well, that's for when I need a bit more 'reach'. Something a little more in the telephoto end of the range. And it's why I kept my Panasonic 45-150mm f/4-5.6 when I was selling everything else.

Waiting for Dinner. Olympus OM-D E-M1 with Lumix 45-150mm lens. f/5.6 @ 1/500th, ISO 800 

If you are looking for a lightweight, well-constructed, reasonably priced, and very sharp telephoto lens for your micro four thirds system, then look no more!. The Panasonic Lumix G 45-150mm f/4-5.6 Asph. Power O.I.S. lens (to give its full title), fits the bill perfectly.

How small and how light? At only 210 grams and 73mm (at the wide end - 110mm when extended for full telephoto), the lens is small and light enough to always have in your camera bag. Even the filter size for the front is a tiny 52mm, saving you money over larger - more expensive - filters.

With a focal range of 90 to 300mm in 35mm camera full-frame terms, this lens is the epitome of the 'smaller' and lighter' promise of micro four thirds - without compromising on quality.

To keep the weight down, Panasonic have used quite a bit of plastic in its construction, but there's also metal where it counts (such as the lens mount). And as stated, they haven't skimped on optical quality. The lens uses 12 elements in 9 groups. Two of these are aspherical lenses, and one is an UHR (ultra-high refractive index) lens. This means that image distortion is minimised, resulting in clearer, sharper images. Add to this Panasonic's Power O.I.S. (optical image stabilisation) built into the lens, and you have a very fully-featured lens.

Finally, the lens can often be found for as little as $300.00NZ new (as of September 2021), and obviously even cheaper on the used market. This is outstandingly good value for a lens with such an impressive focal range. And to top it off, Panasonic even throws in a lens hood, even at this price. Kudos Panasonic (and are you listening Olympus!?).

At the beginning of this review, I mentioned that my 'need' for a telephoto lens was somewhat limited. But there's no reason it should be that way - even predominantly as a landscape photographer. Because I'm not just a landscape photographer. None of us are really. We are parents who take photos of our children, grandparents who take photos of our grandkids, and passionate creative types who take photos at all types of events. Chances are, then, that a telephoto lens is going to come in quite handy on most (if not all) of those occasions.

Greenstone Speedway, Sunset. OM-D E-M1 with Lumix 45-150mm lens. f/5.6 @ 1/320th, ISO 200

And then, of course, there is landscape photography. Which is not a genre unique to only wide-angle lenses. Telephoto images can be very effective when shooting the landscape. To be honest, I probably don't use mine enough in the landscape - to the detriment of my images.

The above image - Greenstone Speedway, Sunset - was shot recently with the Panasonic 45-150mm lens, and it's one of my favourite images of this year. It's also a shot that I couldn't have taken with the wide angle, since it was impossible to get close enough to the subject to achieve this composition.

So, since I'm planning on using the lens a lot more for 'serious' landscape work, I thought I'd better test it out a little to see if it was up to the task. If you've read my previous post, where I reviewed my Panasonic Lumix 12-35mm f/2.8, you'll know my 'testing' methodology. Which is to say, I don't use test charts, brick walls, or studio environments. I actually go outside, find a landscape, set the camera up on a tripod, and have at it! Then I look at the results in Lightroom at 100%, and see if I'm happy or not. Job's a good'n.

It may be difficult to tell from a web-file on this blog, so let me tell you what I can see full-screen in Lightroom (and you'll just have to take my word for it).

Above are 100% crops of a photo taken of the Greymouth Wharf. The wharf itself was probably about 500 feet away from me (across the other side of the Grey River). For all these images, the lens was extended to the full 150mm telephoto end (a 300mm full-frame field of view). Not usually the most optimal settings for image sharpness - wide open and at full zoom.

Nevertheless, at these settings (f/5.6 @ 150mm) the lens is already very sharp! That's pretty impressive - and I must admit I was surprised. I thought for sure that f/5.6 would be only acceptable, and that it would be even sharper stopped down to f/7.1 or f/8. But this wasn't the case - not with my copy of the lens at least. At f/6.3, at f/7.1, and at f/8, there was no discernible increase in sharpness. That is to say, they were all just as sharp as each other! This is very impressive. I even checked to make sure that I somehow hadn't mixed up the files.

I hadn't. f/5.6 is excellent, as is f/6.3 and up to f/10. It's from f/11 and above that the lens actually gets softer - and this is to be expected. 

Cobden Tiphead, Sunset. OM-D E-M1 with Lumix 45-150mm lens. f/7.1 @ 1/200th, ISO 200

The optical performance of the Panasonic Lumix 45-150mm f/4-5.6, even wide open at the extreme telephoto range, has blown me away. It's sharp - plenty sharp - and is optically an exceptional performer. It focuses quickly on my E-M1 (although it does hunt for focus a little in lower light), feels solid and well built, has a metal lens mount, and produces superb images. For very little money. Seriously - what's not to like!?

If you are looking at specializing in wildlife, bird or sports photography, then of course you are going to want to invest in a little more serious telephoto gear. Something like the Lumix 100-400mm Leica f/4-6.3 or the Olympus 150-400mm f/4.5 Pro. And notice I said 'invest', since neither of these options could be reasonably called cheap (or lightweight).

Greymouth Wharf. OM-D E-M1 with Lumix 45-150mm lens. f/7.1 @ 1/500th, ISO 200

But for the rest of us, fortunately, there's the exceptional Panasonic Lumix G 45-150mm f/4-5.6. I'm so glad I kept this lens when deciding what to sell so I could afford the 12-35mm f/2.8. For the price, it's an amazingly good lens. I'm pretty sure I'll be making a lot more use of it for my images going forward.

An easy 5 out of 5 stars and very highly recommended if you are looking for an affordable telephoto lens for your micro four thirds system. If you are choosing between this and the Olympus 40-150mm f/4-5.6, I would say go for the Panasonic. They are both optically excellent, but I think the Panasonic has it over the Olympus in terms of build quality (Olympus has a plastic lens mount). Just saying...

Panasonic Lumix G X Vario 12-35mm f/2.8 lens review

What is the single biggest factor in creating quality images with your camera? Is it how many megapixels you have? How about image stabilisation? What about a sturdy carbon-fiber tripod? Or is it holding your breath while taking the photo?

Not surprisingly, it's none of those. Although you'd be forgiven for thinking it wasn't at least one of the above, considering the marketing hype these features get (ok, maybe not the last one). Instead, what will any seasoned photographer worth their salt (excuse the pun) tell you to invest in before buying the latest camera body? It's glass - of course.

Lake Pearson, Canterbury. Lumix G X Vario 12-35mm f/2.8.  f/6.3 @ 1/250th, ISO 200

Good glass - top quality optics, will dictate more than anything else, the quality of your final images. A pro-level camera body with a cheap plastic lens will struggle all day against a basic camera body paired with a pro optic. And it really is a difference you can tell when looking at your photos. Camera bodies will come and go - that's a given. But good glass - quality lenses - will hold their value, and probably last a lifetime if looked after.

And in terms of a quality optic for the micro four thirds system, they don't come much better than the Panasonic Lumix G X Vario 12-35mm f/2.8 Asph with Power O.I.S.

If you are a travel, documentary or wedding photographer, this is quite simply a must-have lens. Period. The 12-35mm zoom range, at a constant and bright f/2.8, relates to the 'classic' 24-70mm f2.8 lens that has a place in every professional photographers' camera bag. This covers wide angle to standard telephoto; ideal for landscapes and portraits - and everything in-between.

Because it is part of Panasonic's premium 'X' range of lenses, designed for professional use, it features solid metal construction (with a little plastic and rubber thrown in to save some weight) and rugged weather-sealing. This gives the lens a solid heft, without being too heavy. At 305 grams and 73.8mm in height (extending out to around 94mm when zoomed out), it's a compact design, although it's probably more at home on an Olympus E-M1 or Panasonic GH4 than on an Olympus Pen or Panasonic GX80.

The lens is constructed of 14 elements in 9 groups, and includes 4 aspherical lenses, 1 UED and 1 UHR lens to minimise aberrations and ensure superb resolution. This is also helped by a special nano surface coating on the lenses to help reduce ghosting and flare. That's a lot of optical 'tech' in one lens. But what it means 'in reality' is superb image quality. And that's what really matters.

The  G X Vario 12-35mm f2.8 also features Panasonic's Power O.I.S (optical image stabilisation), although I have this turned off on the lens in preference for the in-body image stabilsation of my E-M1. If, however, you have one of the latest Panasonic bodies, I do believe this lens can take advantage of dual-I.S. - meaning the lens and camera stabilisation will work together for super-power image stabilisation! Apparently.

Cobden Estuary. OM-D E-M1 with Lumix 12-35mm f/2.8 X.  f/5.6 @ 1/500th, ISO 200

It's no secret that I sold all my other micro four thirds lenses (bar one) to purchase this lens to pair with my OM-D E-M1. That's called 'putting your money where your mouth is'. Yes, the quality of the glass you put on the front of your camera really does make all the difference. Why didn't I get the Olympus 12-40mm f2.8 Pro instead? Simple - economics. I found the Lumix 12-35mm f2.8 at an amazingly good price (second hand), while the Olympus was a little more expensive. I have owned the 12-40mm before, and it's an outstandingly good lens. But optically, I'm pretty sure there wouldn't be much between the two.

Having now got the Lumix 12-35mm f2.8, I also needed to do my own testing with the lens - to establish the optimal settings for my use-case (namely landscape photography). To do this, I simply take the camera out, and shoot with it! No test charts, no brick walls, no controlled studio environments. I actually take the lens outside and test it by taking photos, and then looking at them to see what I think. Revolutionary - I know.

100% crops of the 'Cobden Estuary' image above.

The resulting images aren't beautiful portfolio worthy landscape shots. But they serve a purpose. To get the shots I needed, I placed the camera on a tripod, set the lens to its widest 12mm (24mm in full-frame terms), let the camera autofocus half-way into the scene, and then went through the full aperture range. Easy.

In doing so, what have I determined is my 'optimal' f/stop when using the Lumix G X vario 12-35mm on my Olympus OM-D E-M1? It may be hard (or impossible) to tell from the crops shown above, but it looks to me like somewhere between f/5.6 to f/8 is the lenses sharpest setting across the entire image. Actually, a very close inspection in Lightroom of the full range of f/stops would suggest that f/7.1 gives me ultimate image sharpness.

Seems like an odd f-number for ultimate sharpness, but there you have it. In fact, somewhere in the deep, dark recesses of my mind I seem to recall watching a Youtube video where another landscape photographer who uses an E-M1 Mk2 said that f/7.1 on his Olympus lens gave ultimate sharpness as well. Might be an Olympus camera thing?

Across the Estuary to Greymouth.  E-M1 with Lumix 12-35mm f2.8 X. f/5.6 @ 1/320th, ISO 200

Oddly enough, I've been shooting a lot at f/6.3 lately - also for no apparent reason - and getting very sharp images. I just need to bump that up one-third of an f-stop, to f/7.1, and I'm there - optimal sharpness.

Just for laughs, I also had a close look at how these apertures performed at infinity, by shooting out towards the Greymouth wharf - focusing again half-way into the scene. And once again, same result. Between f/5.6 and f/8 (so that would be f/7.1) was the sharpest.

This is probably also hard to see from this image on the blog - you'll just have to take my word for it. What I would say, from testing all apertures at 12mm, is that central sharpness is good at f/2.8 - best at f/7.1 - and then begins to fall back to just good again by f/11. The very high f-stops of f/16 to f/22 are to be avoided at all costs - and aren't necessary with micro four thirds anyway due to the extra depth of field achieved with the smaller sensor. 

I would also note, zooming in to the buildings in the distance at 12mm, that there is a tiny amount of barrel distortion noticeable. Not surprising at the widest end of the lens, and probably something that would get corrected automatically on a Panasonic body (but not on an Olympus). It's easily fixed in Lightroom, and I didn't even notice it until I zoomed right in and pixel peeped. But certainly something to be aware of if you are also going to use this lens on your Olympus camera body that won't automatically correct the distortion.

Ultimate sharpness? E-M1 with Lumix 12-35mm @ f/5.6

Finally, a word about using this lens for video. Dunno. I'm not a video guy. I will use this lens 99.99% of the time for stills shooting. Sorry.

But... from what I've seen on-line, and read in reviews, this lens is also considered a must-have for shooting video in the Panasonic eco-system. So if you are looking at this lens for video work, you won't be disappointed (by all accounts). 

So, do I recommend the Panasonic Lumix G X Vario 12-35mm f/2.8 Asp lens if you are a micro four thirds user? You're damn tootin' I do! It's a superb lens, in practically all respects, and just might be the only lens you will ever need? It's certainly worth looking at on the used market, where a mark 1 version of this lens (which is the one I have) goes for around $500.00NZ. That's crazy good value for a lens that sells for $1500.00NZ new (for the mark 2 version).

The difference between the mark 1 and the mark 2? The mark 2 is now 'freeze-proof' rated to -10, while the mark 1 isn't. And there is a slight O.I.S. update in the mark 2 as well. Other than that, and a re-designed look (all black in the mark 2 as opposed the black and grey on the mark 1), they are optically the same. If you have the money and want the reassurance of a warranty, then obviously opt for the mark 2. But, if you're on a budget, a good used mark 1 is the way to go.

If you have only ever used a mid-range kit lens on your camera, whatever system you shoot with, then you should seriously consider 'upgrading' to a pro-level lens. Forget about that new camera body that's just been released. You really don't need an extra 2 megapixels. Invest, instead, in glass. And then you will really notice an improvement in your images. Guaranteed.

The Panasonic Lumix G X Vario 12-35mm f2.8 Asph is an easy 4.5 out of 5 stars on my Olympus OM-D E-M1. Pair it with a Panasonic GH5 and it would be hard not to give it a perfect 5. Just get one already!

'Action' landscape photography at Punakaiki

We are slowly coming out of Lockdown here in New Zealand. Auckland is still at complete level 4 Lockdown, but the rest of the country has moved to 'Delta' level 2. At level 2, you can start to travel a little further afield, and businesses can re-open (while still maintain strict social distancing and mask-wearing). I'm still working from home, and probably will be for at least another two weeks. The weather has also been rotten this week - wind, rain, thunder and lightning - the works. My wife and I have got a touch of cabin fever.

So when we discovered that Saturday looked promising weather-wise, we decided to pack a lunch and head out for the day. Yay! But where to go?

The Chimney Pot. OM-D E-M1 with Panansonic 12-35mm f/2.8.  f/5.6 @ 1/1000th, ISO 200

A quick check of the tides, and I knew exactly where I wanted to go. High tide was scheduled for 1.00pm, and it was likely going to be very dramatic. The country had been issued with a high-waves warning earlier on in the week, and from our home we can hear, and see, the waves as they crash into Cobden tiphead. With tides, and waves that dramatic, there's really only one place to head to if you're a photographer - Punakaiki and the Pancake Rock Blowholes.

Yours truly ready to capture the action. Photo: Joanna Lorimer. Nikon D70 with Nikkor 18-55mm

The Pancake Rock Blowholes at Punakaiki, are a very famous tourist destination. The 'pancake' rocks are formations that began 30 million years ago, when lime-rich fragments of dead marine creatures were deposited on the sea bed. These were then covered by layers of soft mud. Thousands of years of rain, wind and sea spray have etched the softer siltstone into horizontal grooves, which look like giant layers of pancakes.

Earthquakes have raised them from the seabed to the level we can see today, as well as creating a maze of underground passages and open caverns facing the sea. When there's a big swell and a high tide, the ocean surges into these caverns and water is forced through the passages. Huge geysers of spray can then burst spectacularly skyward - under the right conditions. The sorts of conditions we were likely to have on this very day...

Pancake Rocks Blowholes, Punakaiki. E-M1 with Lumix 12-35mm. f/6.3 @ 1/1250th, ISO 200

We were not disappointed. I've lived on the West Coast for most of my life, and have visited - and photographed - the Pancake Rocks Blowholes dozens of times. I've never seen them this good. They were, as the young kids say, 'Epic'! In fact, they were so good, and so powerful, that the spray from the really big geysers was reaching the viewing platform and drenching everyone. Very exciting - but not great for camera gear and lenses.

For the hour or so that we were there photographing the blowholes, I adopted a 'burst and hide' style of shooting. I would wait for the really big blows (you could hear them coming), shoot a rapid-fire high speed burst of about a dozen images, then quickly point my camera down and into my chest as I turned my back to the spray! It helped to keep most of the salt spray off of the camera, but I would still need to wipe the front of the lens every 10 minutes or so. Note to self - use a UV filter over the lens next time.

Surge Pool. E-M1 with Lumix 12-35mm. f/6.3 @ 1/640th, ISO 200

Fortunately, both the Olympus OM-D E-M1 and the Lumix 12-35mm f/2.8 are weather-sealed and can take some pretty serious punishment from the elements. But salt water is salt water, and probably not great for lens coatings or metal, weather-sealing or not. I was, as mentioned, trying to be careful and not get my gear drenched.

Having said that, it was pretty difficult to keep anything dry with all the spray from the sea floating around. As someone who wears glasses 100% of the time, it didn't take long between wipes until the lenses of your glasses (and camera) were needing a wipe-down again. Annoyingly, the really big geysers seemed to happen every time I stopped to wipe clear my glasses and lens. I must have missed at least half a dozen really big blows while wiping glass clear of water spots. But as maddening as that was, I knew if I was patient, it would only be a matter of time before another big gush came around.

Thar she blows! Olympus OM-D E-M1 with Lumix 12-35mm. f/6.3 @ 1/1600th, ISO 200

This is the big one! The biggest geyser I have ever seen come from the Pancake Rock Blowholes. And as impressive as it looks in the photograph, it's ten times more impressive being there and seeing it happen. The sheer volume and power of the water is - in a word - awesome!

As I said earlier, I've photographed the blowholes dozens of times. And I've captured some pretty decent geysers in my time. Or at least I thought I had. Until today. 

I really don't think it could get any more impressive than this. The photograph above of the biggest geyser I've ever seen at the Pancake Rocks Blowholes, is a 'bucket list' photo for me. It's one of those "if I never take another shot of this in my life I'd be happy" kind of photo. It's the 'action' shot of the blowholes that I've always wanted. And now, I've finally got it.

Does getting the image fill me with a sense of accomplishment. Heck yeah! Of course it does. The above image is probably a 30+ year image in the making. I smile every time I look at it. Why wouldn't I?

The aftermath. Olympus OM-D E-M1 with Lumix 12-35mm. f/6.3 @ 1/1600th, ISO 200

Does that mean I will stop going to Punakaiki to photograph the blowholes? No, not at all. I will still head to the blowholes if the weather and photography gods line-up again. And who knows, maybe there's an even bigger geyser in store for me in the future? 

But I doubt it. And as I said, if I never get the same conditions ever again in my lifetime, I can die happy, knowing I got 'my' image of the blowholes on a good day.

I also couldn't think of better gear to capture it with either. The Panasonic Lumix 12-35mm f/2.8 is creating beautifully crisp, detailed, sharp and vibrant images - with very impressive edge-to-edge sharpness at the apertures I'm shooting with (around f/5.6 to f/8 mostly). And the Olympus E-M1 is blazing fast, wonderfully responsive, fantastic to shoot with, and the RAW files are a joy to process. I've only had this combination for a few weeks, and it has already netted me a 'bucket-list' shot. What more could I ask for? 

My 'dream' kit in 2021

I belong to several Facebook groups to do with buying and selling camera gear (surprise, surprise). Mostly it is people looking to upgrade, sell the occasional lens, or change systems. I've used it myself from time to time. It's actually how I found, and purchased, my Panasonic Lumix 12-35mm f2.8 recently.

Most of the time I just flick through the posts quickly, especially if I'm not looking to buy or sell anything. But one recent post made me stop in my tracks, and almost made my eyes water! And it also got me thinking (and dreaming).

Someone was selling their entire Sony kit - for $16,000NZ! No, that's not a typo. $16k! That price is enough to make anyone stop and look more closely.

To be fair, this wasn't just some scam artist trying to dupe an unsuspecting newbie into paying way too much for outdated gear. This was a legit seller, with a LOT of quality Sony camera gear, who was hoping to sell it all as a package deal. And I'm sure it was good value, even at sixteen grand NZ. I didn't dive too deeply into exactly what he had in the package, but there were at least two Sony A7R III camera bodies, probably with grips, and about five or six G series lenses to go with it. As well as flashes and other accessories. And it all seemed very lightly used. I think one of the bodies had only done around 15000 shutter actuation's. That's nothing.

But, as much of a bargain as it may have been, it got me thinking about someone's ability to drop $16k on a camera system. Obviously it was being pitched at a professional photographer. And I assume (although I don't know for sure) that the guy selling it was a professional themselves. Although maybe not? I've known a few hobbyists in my time who had the ability to drop some serious cash on photography gear. And good on them, if they can afford to do so.

For me, however, that kind of money to spend on photography gear is dream territory. Although I'm sure if I added up all that I had spent on photography over the last 35+ years, that figure would also make my eyes water! But I have certainly never had the ability to spend that kind of amount all in one go. And I'm sure I never will. And yet, from time to time, I think we all play the 'what if' game in our minds. And this Facebook post, with the seller asking $16,000NZ for his Sony gear, got me thinking - and dreaming - about 'what if'? What if I had $16k to drop on photography gear. What would I get, in 2021?

Of course the very first question I would need to ask myself is "Should I stay, or should I go" (apologies to The Clash).

To be honest, I didn't really have to think about this for too long. I think I'd stay. Which might, for some, be a surprising answer. After all, if you had $16,000 wouldn't it be the perfect opportunity to 'start again' and buy into a completely new system?

And the answer is, of course, 'yes'. It would be a perfect time to buy into a new system. If you were unhappy with your 'old' one. Thing is, I'm not unhappy with my Olympus/Panasonic micro four thirds system at all. Just the opposite in fact. I still maintain that it is an amazing, incredible, fully featured and mid-blowingly capable image-capturing system. So why would I want to change?

But what about the future of micro four thirds - I hear you ask. Yep. Very good question. The future is certainly uncertain (to quote an obscure Rowan Atkinson skit). And yet, my honest (although perhaps somewhat flippant) reply would actually be - I don't care.

I'm not sure how long JIP (Japan Industrial Partners) is going to keep the micro four thirds Olympus camera system going for? Nobody really does. Will they produce another iteration of OM-D models? Will there be an E-M1 mk4, or E-M5 mk4? Or an entirely new E-M'something'? Will we ever see an E-M1x Mk2? I honestly don't know. 

And what of Panasonic? We know the GH6 is coming, which is a good sign. But if Olympus folds, will there be a GH7? Or a G10? Or any new lenses? Again, I simply don't know. We do know that Sony seems to still be developing micro four thirds sensor technology, which is a very positive sign. But this is Sony. So we also know that the development could cease at any time if it no longer becomes profitable. And fair enough.

But in the end, as I stated earlier, I just don't care. And why not? Well, quite simply, even if all production of micro four thirds stopped tomorrow (and it won't), there would be enough product - and probably enough spare parts - in existence already to see me through to the end of my photography days. I'm no spring chicken. I realistically only have about another 20 years of good photography left in me. If that. And barring accidents, I look after my gear. So I reckon, based on current technology, any new camera I purchased in 2021 would probably have twenty years of use in it - easily. I have, and use, a Nikon D70 - which was released in 2004. That's 17 years ago. And it's still going strong. And still produces great results. I have no doubt that the current technology would see me through to the end of my photographic journey.

Having just said all that... if I was 20 years old and just starting out in my photography career, then my decision would be completely different. If I was serious about a photography career, had my whole life ahead of me, and wanted to invest heavily into a system, it would not be micro four thirds. I would look, instead, at the Nikon Z (or Canon R) mirrorless system.

But I'm not (20 years old), so I'm very happy to stick with micro four thirds. And would still suggest that a hobbyist or amateur photographer give it serious consideration in 2021 as well. Despite what I've postulated above, I still think there's life left in the old girl yet 😉

Okay, enough already. If I had $16,000NZ to spend today, on photography gear, what would I get? Not allowing for discounts (but I'd want something taken off  - or included - if I was dropping $16k), and given my bias towards landscape photography, the list would go something like this:

Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mk3 bodies x2  $6,194.00

Olympus HLD 9 Power Battery Grip $498.00

Extra BLH-1 Olympus battery x2 $240.00

M.Zuiko 8-25mm ED F4 Pro lens $1,750.00

M.Zuiko 12-40mm ED F2.8 Pro lens $1,400.00

M.Zuiko 40-150mm EZ F2.8 Pro lens $1,800.00

Olympus MC-20 2x Teleconverter $785.00

M.Zuiko 8mm ED F1.8 Fisheye Pro lens $1,500.00

M.Zuiko 60mm F2.8 Macro lens $600.00

Olympus FL-700R Flash $650.00

Filters and Camera Bag $600.00

For a grand total of $16,000NZ (approx)

Prices in NZ dollars, rounded up, as at 8.09.21

I'm not going to go into great detail about why I've chosen what I have, a lot of it is probably self-explanatory. I will, however, clarify a couple of things...

First, I went for two E-M1 Mk3 bodies and one grip for flexibility over going for the E-M1x with built-in grip that can't be detached. If I want to travel 'light' I would simply use the E-M1's sans-grip. That's not an option with the E-M1x. I could have gone with an E-M1 Mk3 plus grip, and an E-M1x body for basically the same cost, but decided that two identical back-up bodies would be a better idea.

The lenses are probably all obvious. I opted for the 8-25mm f4 over the 7-14mm f2.8 as my landscape lens because a) I don't need f/2.8 for landscapes, and b) the 8-25mm allows for using filters, whereas the 7-14mm doesn't. And I think that the range of the 8-25mm is far more versatile as well.

The fisheye, and to some extent the macro, are in the list just because I can. They are very 'specialty' lenses that I wouldn't use very often, but are achievable within budget - so why not. I'm obviously not really a 'prime' guy, but these specialty lenses are an exception to the rule. I also don't feel the need to wait for the 100mm macro Pro version that OMD Solutions are said to be releasing soon. As already stated, I'm not really a macro shooter, so the 60mm will be more than sufficient for my needs.

So there you have it. My 'dream' kit. And as you can see, even purchasing all new, you can get a lot of gear for your money if you go with a micro four thirds system. And I didn't even look at any Panasonic lenses - even though it's what I shoot with at the moment.

I know that this has been a long post already - and thank you if you are still reading this. If you are, bare with me a little longer. I thought it might also be interesting, as a comparison, to see what $16kNZ would get you if you bought into the Nikon Z system that I mentioned above.

Nikon Z6 Mirrorless bodies x2 $6,380.00

Nikon MB-N10 Battery grip $450.00

Extra Nikon Z6 battery x2 $240.00

Nikon XQD Memory Card 64GB x2 $680.00

Nikkor Z 14-30mm F4 S lens $2,185.00

Nikkor Z 24-70mm F4 S lens $1,685.00

Nikkor X 70-200mm F2.8 VR S lens $4,300.00

For a grand total of $16,000NZ (approx)

Prices in NZ dollars, rounded up, as at 8.09.21

I have tried, as much as possible, to find like-for-like in the two systems. And as you can see, $16,000 buys you a lot less if you opt for a full frame Z series Nikon. I have even chosen the first generation Z6, as opposed to the latest model Z6 II. You could also save yourself some money by using the F series adapter and using the older 'F' mount lenses, instead of going for the Z mounts. But if you are 'investing' in the system long-term, why would you? Just get the Z mount lenses in the first place.

While the above may seem a bit futile (I haven't got $16,000 to spend on photography gear after all) and pointless, it's still quite fun. No harm in dreaming - right? It may also be interesting to look back on this post in a few years time - say 2025 - and re-visit it, to see if my 'wishlist' may have changed?

What would be on your wishlist if you suddenly found $16,000 to spend on photography (and you can't say 'a world trip', it has to be on actual gear)? Go on, dream a little...

Photo walk No.3 during Lockdown

Could it happen three times in a row? Could we have a lovely, calm, still evening to go out walking and photographing here on the West Coast during Lockdown? You betcha we could!

Wednesday and Thursday evenings had been beautiful, with wonderful light and not a breath of wind (see my last two posts). When it looked like Friday would be the same, I was delighted. And also a little anxious. I wanted to honour the conditions of the Level 3 Lockdown here in New Zealand at the moment (no travelling outside your local area), which meant sticking to the same locations that I had shot the previous two nights. Would I come up with anything new to photograph? Or would I wander around bored and come away with nothing?

Oh well, at least I would get some exercise I guess? I really wasn't 'feeling' it in terms of photographic inspiration. But, the sky looked like it might cloud-up and get some interesting colour (the last two evenings had been absolutely cloudless), so I grabbed my E-M1, both my lenses this time, and headed out the door. With no great expectations.

Greymouth Wharf. OM-D E-M1 with Lumix 12-35mm f/2.8. f/8 @ 1/1600th, ISO 1600 

Perhaps I should go out shooting with no expectations more often? Because the images I came home with from the third night's outing are, in my estimation, the best of the three nights. And, one or two of them may be some of the best photos I've taken this year! And all because I pushed myself to explore an area that I've somehow never been to before.

My normal walk takes me down to the Cobden lagoon and estuary, overlooking the Greymouth wharf across the Grey River. I have captured several images of this area over the last few nights, taken from the roadside that I walk along. The estuary is situated next to the Greenstone Park Speedway - a heavily fenced-off area that, to be honest, I don't ever pay much attention to. But on my third trip out in as many days, I was desperate for a different viewpoint. So I had a closer look at the speedway area.

Estuary looking back towards Cobden. E-M1 with Lumix 12-35mm. f/8 @ 1/800th, ISO 1600

On closer inspection, I noticed a gravel road leading down alongside the speedway and estuary. I'm sure I must have seen it before, but I can't say that I've ever ventured down it? It just seemed like an innocuous dirt road leading off to nowhere much. Why I didn't put two and two together I'll never know. But I'm very glad that I was - a.) desperate enough to look for new locations, and - b.) curious enough to take a chance and walk down a gravel road.

Turns out the gravel road does actually lead to somewhere 😂 Whooda thunk it! It leads, not surprisingly, to around behind the estuary and speedway, to a small beach area. For someone who has lived in this area for over twenty years, but who had never gone down this road, it was like walking through the closet and into Narnia! My excitement at finding somewhere completely new to explore, in an environment that I had assumed I knew intimately, was almost overwhelming. Especially on a night where I thought that I couldn't possibly come up with any new photographs.

Blaketown Tiphead Golden Sunset. E-M1 with Lumix 45-150mm. f/5.6 @ 1/250th, ISO 200

Getting around in-behind the estuary not only gave me an unobstructed view of the Greymouth wharf, it also offered a different viewpoint of the Blaketown Tiphead. For the last few nights I had photographed looking across to Blaketown, with the setting sun at a 45 degree angle. But from this vantage, I was able to have the sun setting directly behind the tiphead, allowing the opprtunity for more of a silhouette.

And before you cry 'foul' and tell me to lay off the saturation slider in Lightroom, that's exactly what it looked like! It really was that intense and that spectacular. Honest!

Speedway commentary booth. OM-D E-M1 with Lumix 45-150mm. f/5.6 @ 1/500th, ISO 200

When I first arrived at the beach area behind the speedway, I immediately noticed the commentary booth sitting up above the foliage, with clouds gathering behind it. I knew that if the sky coloured up, and the clouds caught the light, I would get some fantastic images of the booth silhouetted against a wonderful sunset sky. I had to wait for about an hour for it to happen, but when it did, I wasn't disappointed.

Catching the light. OM-D E-M1 with Lumix 45-150mm. f/5.6 @ 1/100th, ISO 400

I love the colour, the drama, and the simplicity of these last images of the commentary booth against the sunset. I was very excited while I was taking them, and I'm still very excited now as I look at them. I pre-visualized the images, waited for the right conditions, and then executed the images in exactly the way I had planned. I spent about 30 minutes, and took around 60 photos of this one subject - observing the light as it changed, the clouds as they moved, and the composition as I refined it. It was a thoroughly enjoyable and totally reinvigorating evenings shooting. And to think, it came from an initial feeling of apathy and disinterest.

Three nights, walking around the same location during Lockdown, produced three very different sets of images (mostly). Now the rain has come for the week (not surprisingly), and I probably won't get out to shoot again for a while. But when I do, I will have a new location to go back to and re-explore - together with familiar locations that never seem to disappoint.

BTW - just a quick update on the E-M1. Now that the rear control dial has been fixed, it functions perfectly. Very responsive, and very accurate. Exactly how I remember it to be. Happy, happy, joy, joy 😁