Fuji Acros film recipe for the X100

We are now three days in to 2026 - my year of one camera, one lens, with the Fujifilm X100. Yesterday was my first 'official' 2026 shoot with the camera - and a chance to use the film recipe in my C2 slot - Fujifilm Acros.

Coal Creek Falls Track. Fujifilm X100. f5.6 @ 1/38th, ISO 200. Acros film recipe + grain

Acros is my favourite black and white film, and I used the Acros film simulation provided with the Fujifilm X-E2 all the time when I was shooting with that camera. Alas, the X100 does not have the Acros film simulation as standard - simply providing a 'mono' setting instead. But, with the ability to 'tweak' the settings in the X100 and program in your own recipes into custom settings, all is not lost. I have therefore used the C2 slot to program my version of an Acros film recipe.

Tiny waterfall. X100. f5.6 @ 1/30, ISO 200
Acros film recipe + gain added in
Nik Collections Color Efex Pro 4

Fujifilm Acros Film Recipe

Film base: Mono +Y

ISO: Auto

Dynamic Range: 100

White Balance: Auto

Color: Mid

Sharpness: M-Hard

Highlight Tone: Standard

Shadow Tone: M-Hard

Noise reduction: M-Low

Mono + Y gives me a nice contrasty base image to work from, and this is increased with a little extra sharpness and a little more richness in the blacks/shadows. With a black and white image I am never concerned with letting the blacks go completely black. I was told very early on in my photography career by one of my mentors to let the blacks go black and the whites go white for a good monochrome image, and I have taken this advice to heart. There's nothing worse than an insipid, flat monochrome image (imho).

In my last post I talked about using the optical viewfinder in preference to the evf, and this is still the case. I am also finding that I am composing and shooting with the lcd on the back of the camera - especially when shooting in monochrome as this gives me a preview of what it will look like in black and white before taking the photo. I think that using the optical viewfinder is also helping with the battery life of the X100. Most reviews of the camera take great pains to single the battery life of the X100 out as being truly horrible. I haven't found this to be the case at all. I'm on my third outing with this camera and the battery is still showing a full charge! Granted I don't usually take hundreds of images a day, and I turn the camera off between extended periods of not shooting. So for my shooting style, battery life is perfectly fine.

Forest Interior. Fujifilm X100. f5.6 @ 1/30, ISO 200. Acros film recipe + grain 

Also in my last post, I mentioned at the end that I recently had a computer upgrade and lost the Nik Collection in the process. Well, good news... the internet came to the rescue and I was able to find the software that Google offered as a free download again. So I can still use Color Efex Pro 4 to add grain to the final images I want to in post. Yay!

I don't go heavy on the grain - it is subtle. But it is there. And it just completes the 'look' that I'm going for. OK, it's not therefore strictly using images SOOC (straight out of camera) - but that's not what it's about. I don't mind adding an extra step to some of my jpegs to just give them that finishing touch. It's still a long way from shooting and processing RAW images. And to be fair, if the X100 had the ability, then I would be adding grain to the jpeg at the point of capture...

Coal Creek Falls. X100. f/8 @ 1/110th, ISO 200. Acros film recipe + grain with Color Efex Pro 4

I love shooting black and white with film, and this hasn't changed with digital. I adore the 'timeless' quality of monochrome - be it with landscape, portrait, or general photography. Which is why I have the Acros film recipe in my C2 slot, and don't feel the need to cover my bases by shooting RAW + Jpeg so I can get a colour image as well. Shooting monochrome is an intentional act that I am more than happy to commit to on a regular basis. And if I come across a scene that I feel would benefit more with a colour image, then I simply switch to my C1 slot for that photo and then move back to C2 for the Acros film recipe.

Is the final result exactly like Acros film? Probably not. But does it get me in the same mindset, whereby when I switch to the C2 slot on the X100 my brain also switches into monochrome mode? Yes it does. And that's more than good enough for me.

Film Simulation Recipe C4: Kodak Tri-X

If you've been following along recently (thanks if you have - shame on you if you haven't), you will have been introduced to the first two of my custom film recipes for my Fujifilm X-E1. If you want to catch up on these posts, go here for my version of Classic Chrome, and here for my version of Acros.

Hansen Park, Christchurch. Fuji X-E2 with Fujinon 16-50mm. f/16 @ 1/100th, ISO 400
C4 film simulation recipe - Kodak Tri-X jpeg

To mix things up a bit (and to keep those who are following along on their toes), I'm going to jump from C2 to C4, missing out C3 - my Kodak Portra 400 simulation - for another time. Couple of reasons for this. First, I haven't used the C3 Portra 400 simulation yet, since I haven't been taking many portraits (which is mainly what I would use this film simulation recipe for). But mainly it's because I recently had the opportunity to shoot in a park early in the morning and decided to use the more 'grittier' C4 film simulation. So I actually have some images to show that use this film simulation.

C4: Kodak Tr-X Film Recipe
ISO 400 (will increase if appropriate)
Dynamic Range: 200
White Balance: Auto
Noise Reduction: 0
Image Size: Large 3:2
Image Quality: RAW + Jpeg fine
Film simulation base: Monochrome + R
Highlight Tone: +1
Shadow Tone: +2
Sharpness: +1

As you can see, my Kodak film simulation is based on the Monochrome + Red filter, for a bit more contrast in the black and white tones. This is further enhanced by boosting both the highlights and shadows much more than with my 'standard' Acros simulation. Base ISO begins at ISO 400 to mimic the classic Kodak Tri-X rating, with +1 sharpness to emulate Tri-X's outstanding edge-to-edge sharpness.

Casting Shadows. Fuji X-E2 with Fujinon 16-50mm XC. f/5.6 @ 1/750th, ISO 400. C4 film simulation: Kodak Tri-X

Of my film simulation recipes for the X-E2 (and X-E1), four are black and white and three are colour. When shooting with actual film, I tend to be more of a black and white user, so it's not surprising that me preferences for 'film stock' in the X-E2 is going to be slightly skewed towards B&W.

Of course all my 'titles' for these film recipes are completely arbitrary. The C4 simulation is simply my attempt at replicating a more grittier, high contrast black and white look. The kind of look I associate more with Kodak Tri-X. And calling it Kodak Tri-X is just more cooler (and more descriptive) than always referring to it as 'C4'.

Creeping shadows. Fuji X-E2. f/5.6 @ 1/320th, ISO 400. C4: Kodak Tri-X

I think I mentioned this in my previous post about the Acros recipe, but it's worth mentioning again. The reason I love shooting in the black and white film simulations, is that it offers me the best of both worlds. Setting the camera to shoot in RAW + Jpeg, I get to 'see' in black and white through the evf and subsequent image on the lcd screen, but I also capture a colour RAW file if I change my mind and want the image in colour.

Actually 'seeing' in monochrome is by far the biggest benefit. Eliminating the colour reduces the image to purely shapes, lines and tones. This was a huge help when visualizing an image like the one above - Creeping shadows. Yes, I could see that the shadows were making interesting shapes on the grass when I was there taking the photo. But by setting the camera to my C4 film recipe I was able to  remove all the distracting elements and nail the image in-camera. I could have shot in colour only, knowing that I was going to convert it to monochrome later on and boost the contrast in Lightroom. But if I knew that already, why not just do it at the time? Fuji's outstanding film simulation recipes allow me to do this.

A shadow of my former self. Fuji X-E2 with Fujinon 16-50mm XC. f/5.6 @ 1/550th, ISO 400

I have visited Hansen Park in Christchurch every month for the last six months, and photographed there at the same time each visit. My wife and I have been going over to a medical centre near there, and I have been taking the opportunity to go for a walk in the park and take photos while my wife has her appointment. It's been the winter months mostly, with very cold mornings. But now it's spring, and at 9.30 in the morning the sun was casting very strong side light through the park. The shadows looked fantastic in b&w through the evf, so this is what I decided to concentrate on capturing this morning.

Treescape. Fuji X-E2 with Fujinon 16-50mm XC. f/8 @ 1/240th, ISO 400. C4: Kodak Tri-X jpeg

The X-E2 with lensmate thumb grip and leather case makes for a surprisingly comfortable grip for such a small compact camera. As I talked about in my last post, this is also helped by using the ultra-light Fujinon 16-50mm XC lens. My 'new' secondhand silver mark II version arrived before the weekend, just in time to take it away with me. It's just as sharp and impressive as my last black, mark I, version of the lens - and looks great in silver on the silver/black X-E2 body.

Handling, ergonomics and shooting experience with the Fujifilm X-E2 is sheer joy. I haven't had this much pleasure using a camera in a very long time. Sure, I 'enjoy' using cameras - full stop. The Nikon D300 was/is a 'great' camera, as are the Canons. But there's just something else about the Fujifilm X-E2 (and X-E1) that captivates me and makes me want to shoot. Something almost undefinable. It's all getting a bit 'zen' (sorry), but the connection I feel to the Fuji's is quite special.

Dappled light. Fujifilm X-E2 & Fujinon 16-50mm XC. f/8 @ 1/450th, ISO 400. C4: Kodak Tri-X - jpeg 

Anyone who has followed my posts on this blog for any length of time will understand that I've been searching for my 'ideal' camera system for years. I've oohed and aahed over many systems through the years - from big pro DLSR's like the Canon EOS 1D, to small micro four thirds Olympus E-M1's. And as I said earlier, I've 'enjoyed' them all. But none have given me the almost 'spiritual' connection (here he goes again) that I feel with the Fujifilm X-E's. Am I reading too much into enjoying using a new (for me) camera system? Maybe. But I've also written about how I wasn't that enamored with the X-T1. So I do feel I have at least some perspective still in tact!?

I'm loving the images, I'm loving the cameras and I'm loving the whole user experience. I can't really say much more than that. I've recently sold off all my other gear and moved entirely to the Fujifilm X-E2. But such is the lure of the original X-E1, I've purchased another (back up) body, having just sold my first X-E1 recently. I had presumed the X-T1 / X-E2 would be my camera combination, but once I'd decided to sell the X-T1, I started looking for another X-E1. I found one almost straight away - a black body in mint condition. So now I have an X-E2 / X-E1 combination. And although I'm not a prime lens kinda guy, I've also snapped up a Fujinon 27mm f2.8 pancake lens, which I will pair with the black X-E1 for a super small, super light combo. Looking forward to trying this out and comparing the IQ with the 16-50mm XC. I will post about this soon.

B&W Landscapes with the Fujifilm X-T1

The Fujifilm X-E2 (and briefly the X-E1) is quickly becoming my go-to camera - for everything! Trust me, this is a huge surprise to me - so much so that I can't quite believe it and am starting to second-guess myself.

How so? Well, as much as I like the look of a range-finder style camera like the X-E2, I've always actually preferred the handling and feel of a more traditional SLR styled camera body. So I figured that if I like the X-E2, I'll love the X-T1!? So yes - you guessed it. I brought one.

Carters Beach tree stump. Fujifilm X-T1 with Fujinon 16-50mm XC. f/5.6 @ 1/240th, ISO 200. Polariser

I've had it for a couple of weeks, but haven't had a chance to get out and shoot with it until yesterday (as I write this). The X-T1 uses a more 'traditional' SLR design, with a few more knobs and dials (it has a dedicated ISO dial), but as can be seen in the comparison photo, it's not actually that much bigger than the rangefinder-esque X-E2.

And actually, that's my first gripe with the X-T1. It feels a bit cramped, and not quite big enough. It's been a regular complaint of mine with all mirrorless systems, not just Fujifilm. When I had the Olympus OM-D E-M5 I had to attach the grip before it felt comfortable in my hands, and I ain't got big hands! I feel exactly the same way with the X-T1. I'm sure it would feel better with the vertical grip attached. Oddly enough, the X-E2 doesn't feel as cramped. It actually feels more comfortable in my hand. Partly I think, due to the thumb grip I have attached. But also partly because it doesn't feel crammed with knobs and dials that are all squashed in together.

Carters Beach driftwood. Fuji X-T1 with 16-50mm XC. f/5.6 @ 1/480th, ISO 200

My second gripe is with said knobs and dials. While I understand what Fuji has done with the SLR styled X-T1 - giving us all the main exposure controls directly on the camera itself - they are a bit too fiddly for my liking. The ISO dial on the top left annoys me because it's automatically locked, and has to be unlocked every time you want to change the ISO! (Arrgghhh).

Also, the front and rear control wheels are very small, and quite recessed. I have difficulty accessing them simply by 'feel' with my eye up to the camera. Whereas the control wheel on the X-E2 seems a bit 'chunkier' and falls nicely under my thumb.

Carters Beach Driftwood 2. Fujifilm X-T1 with Fujinon 16-50mm XC. f/5.6 @ 1/105th, ISO 200

On the far right on both cameras sits the exposure compensation wheel. I use this wheel often, flicking it around to add or subtract exposure while my eye is at the viewfinder. The dial on the X-E2 has just the right amount of resistance (to me). Just enough that it spins freely, but not too much so that it could be knocked and changed accidentally. The X-T1's exposure compensation wheel is a little tighter, requiring just that little bit more effort to move. Not a big thing, and I get why they may have made it slightly stiffer, but as I said, the compensation dial on the X-E2 just feels better (again, to me).

Truman Track Beach, Punakaiki. Fuji X-T1 with Fujinon 16-50mm XC. f/5.6 @ 1/550th, ISO 200. Polariser

Wow, that sounds like a bit of a dump on the Fuji X-T1! And I guess, in some ways, it is. I really do find it a bit cramped and too small, even for my smallish hands - especially without the vertical grip attached (which I don't have). Oddly enough, on such a compact SLR, the one thing I really love about the X-T1 is its evf (electronic viewfinder). It's massive! I mean really. It puts most full frame camera viewfinders to shame. I thought the viewfinder on the Olympus E-M1 was big, but the X-T1's in next level. So there's that.

And also, take a look at the black and white images in this post. Of course they were all taken with the X-T1. But they were also all taken in the middle of the day, when the lighting was pretty harsh and not the best for landscape photography. The dynamic range in most of these was off the chart, so I exposed for the highlights and let the shadows block up in the harsh lighting conditions. Surprisingly, there was still plenty of shadow detail left that I was able to recover later in Lightroom - even though these are all jpegs!

Truman Track Blowhole. Fuji X-T1 with Fujinon 16-50mm XC. f/5.6 @ 1/550th, ISO 200. Polariser

All the landscape images for this blogpost were shot using my 'Acros' film simulation recipe (click here for a previous post on this setup). Yes, there has been some post-process tweaking of shadows and highlights (plus my usual Clarity and Dehaze adjustments), which I would expect even with the RAW files. The point is, there was enough data to recover, even with the jpegs, in less than ideal lighting conditions. So I've got no complaints about the x-trans II sensor used in the X-T1 - which really isn't surprising, since it's the same sensor as in my X-E2.

Punakaiki Coastline. Fuji X-T1 with Fujinon 16-50mm XC. f/8 @ 1/140th, ISO 200. Polariser

Of course I wouldn't suggest that anyone shoot landscape photos in the middle of the day, in full sunlight. But sometimes, when you are a 'tourist', you are only in the location once in your life and you can't control the time of day. It is what it is. If this was the only time I was ever going to be at this location (fortunately for me it's not), I'd be very happy with the photos I was able to get with the X-T1.

Pancake Rocks, Punakaiki. Fuji X-T1 with Fujinon 16-50mm XC. f/8 @ 1/125th, ISO 200. Polariser

So absolutely no complaints with the images that you can get with the X-T1 and the Fuji x-trans II 16MP sensor. They are brilliant. Even as jpegs processed in-camera. I've been incredibly impressed with the x-trans sensor from the very first image I took with the X-E1, and I continue to be impressed.

What it boils down to for me, in the end, is handling. Pure and simple. And, as much as it surprises me to say it, I much prefer the handling of the range-finder styled X-E1 and X-E2, that I do the SLR styling of the X-T1. And that really is a shock to me, since it was exactly the opposite with my Olympus mirrorless gear. With the Olympus cameras, I much preferred the E-M5 and E-M1 over the compact Pen series, especially with battery grips attached to the OM-D's. I get the feeling that I would like the X-T1 better with a grip attached too. But then there would still be the issue of the cramped and fiddly knobs and dials, which just feel a bit too small.

Rock Stack, Punakaiki. Fuji X-T1 with Fujinon 16-50mm. f/8 @ 1/220th, ISO 200. Polariser

Having gone a bit mad initially, buying up everything I could find that had 'Fujifilm' on the front of it, I've now had a little time to use the gear and for the dust to settle. The X-E1 has given way to the X-E2 - which wasn't a straight forward decision in the end. You'd think 'upgrading' to the newer model would be a no-brainer, but I actually really struggled to justify keeping the X-E2 over the X-E1. In the end, it really just came down to one or two extra features that the X-E2 had that I would make occasional use of (wi-fi and intervalometer).

I was very keen to get my hands on the X-T1, since SLR style camera bodies have always been my 'thing'. I grew up with cameras like the Minolta X700 and Canon AE-1, so the Fujifilm X-T1 looked the bees kness 😉

Surprisingly, the reality turned out to be somewhat disappointing. Please don't get me wrong though - the Fujifilm X-T1 is a fantastic camera. Of course it is. It just doesn't feel quite right in my hands. Stick a grip on there and I'm sure things would feel better. But then size, weight, and price, would go up. And it still wouldn't fix the 'fiddlyness' issue.

So yes, I'm going to be selling the X-T1 and keeping the X-E2. That will now be my only camera! For everything! And trust me, there's no one more surprised about that than me...