As primarily a landscape photographer, I guess one of the first lenses I look at adding to my arsenal is an ultra wide of some description. Not that I think an ultra wide is the be-all and end-all of landscape photography - not at all. They are, in fact, incredibly difficult to use properly. You can't just slap on a 10mm lens, get absolutely everything in the frame, and expect to take fabulous images every time. If that's your modus operandi with an ultra wide lens then you're going to be disappointed with your images 99.99% of the time. But I do believe they have a place in every landscape photographers bag.
There are many options when looking for an ultra wide, although you also have to take into account the crop factor when using an APS-C sized sensor. Fortunately for Nikon shooters, the x1.5 crop applied to their lenses is not as bad as the x1.6 applied to Canon's. A 10mm lens on a Nikon D300 equates to a 15mm full-frame field of view, whereas on a Canon 50D you're looking at 16mm. That may not sound like a lot, but when you are getting down around the ultra wide angle numbers, 1mm can make quite a difference.
Be that as it may, there are still a lot of options out there to keep all users happy. Some of the most popular wide to ultra-wide offerings come from Tokina, who seem to have concentrated their attention on the wide end of the lens market. Tokina have always impressed me with their build and optical quality, together with their wide zoom range. They also seem to be fairly well priced, especially on the second hand market. The lens that caught my eye when I started looking for an ultra-wide was the Tokina 11-16mm Pro DX f2.8 and it wasn't long before I grabbed one on Trademe (NZ's version of eBay).
Tokina's advertising for the 11-16mm f2.8 as an astro photography lens |
The second reason I was excited to get this lens was for its potential for use in astro-photography. Tokina even market this lens as being perfect for astro on their website (see above). I've never ever shot astro photography seriously. I've never really had the lens for it. But with a wide, fast, sharp (see Tokina's advertising again) lens like the 11-16mm f2.8, serious astro photography was now a real possibility. Very exciting.
My excitement turned to horror however, when I put the Tokina on my D300 for the first time. I had lined up a nice coastal landscape scene, set the aperture to f8 and the ISO to 200, and pushed the AF-On button to focus. And the Tokina went ballistic! It hit infinity focus and then whirred, clicked and shuddered like it was having a epileptic fit! Aaarrgghhh!!! This is NOT happening!?! For me, this was an entirely new lens/camera combo. A complete unknown quantity. Anything could be wrong! Was it the camera? Was it the lens? Was it the AF contacts?
I set about trying to eliminate certain possibilities and causes. I unattached and reattached the lens, just to make sure it had made proper contact. Still a focus issue at infinity. I took the battery out of the camera, then popped it back in and tried again. Still no joy. I then decided to try another lens. I attached my Nikkor 18-70mm to the D300, set up the shot again, held my breath, and pushed the AF-On button. Smooth, silent and precise focus. Yay! And Bugger!!! The Tokina has a focusing problem.
When I got home that evening, I emailed the guy who sold me the lens and let him know it had an obvious focusing issue, and that I would like to return the lens and get my money back. His reply - "Not my problem. The courier must have broken it". Houston, we have a problem.
The lens had arrived perfectly packaged, with no signs of damage, and the lens itself was in physically excellent condition. I knew it wasn't a courier problem - it was a focusing issue. When pushed a little further, the guy acknowledged that he was a Trader who hadn't actually owned the lens himself, but that he had tested it out on his D800. His full-frame D800. He'd 'tested' a DX lens, designed specifically for crop sensor cameras, on his FX full frame camera, and there was no focusing issue (according to him). Nevermind that the only focal length you can use on an FX camera is 16mm! Hardly a comprehensive 'test' of a lens I would have thought? But still, his answer remained the same - "Tough. No refund".
I lodged a dispute with Trademe (eventually the guy just stopped answering my emails), and then started a little investigating into focusing issues with the Tokina 11-16mm f2.8. What I discovered both shocked me, and heartened me. It shocked me in the sense that I began to discover that this might in fact be a fairly common, and known, problem with this particular lens. But I was also heartened at the same time because there seemed to be a fix for the issue that you could perform on the lens yourself (with a couple of basic tools and the nerve to do so).
The Trademe dispute process took about a week (I have no idea what they did to try to persuade the guy to give me my money back), but ended with no resolution (surprise, surprise). Time to take matters into my own hands and 'fix' the lens myself...
The 'tools' required for the job |
Plenty of people had commented on how it had fixed their infinity focusing issues on their Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 - and only took 10 minutes to do themselves. The video is excellent, and walks you through visually the step-by-step process. It is a little daunting to start pulling apart a lens and unscrewing components, but it really is quite straight forward - and ultimately, what have you got to loose? The lens ain't really working too well how it is anyway - right?
Basically what you do is pull the clutch mechanism around the lens down to MF and carefully pull the rubber focusing ring down out of the way (on top of the zoom ring - see photo). Take the tape from around the lens and keep it to reuse when you have finished - but be careful because it will curl up and stick to itself very easily.
Lens focusing ring exposed. |
Apparently these are the infinity focus selectors, and they are in the WRONG place! Instead of being in the middle, these screws should be all the way to the right for Nikon cameras to focus correctly to infinity, or all the way to the left for Canon cameras to focus to infinity!
What!? Why the heck wasn't this done in the Tokina factory? These lenses are sold as either being Nikon compatible, or Canon compatible - so you'd think they could get the infinity focusing screws in the right place before shipping them out to Nikon or Canon customers? But no. Let's just slap them in the middle. She'll be right! Really? The mind boggles!
Screw is in the middle. Should be moved all the way to the right for Nikon! |
You betcha! Worked a treat - for me at least (and for many others who have left comments on Christian's Youtube video). I did have to go back in and have a second go at it - make sure that your screws are placed ALL THE WAY to the right, since this really does control the infinity focusing selection.
Infinity focusing test. Nikon D300 with Tokina 11-16mm f2.8. f11 @ 1/60th, ISO 400 |
I wasn't thrilled to find my Tokina had a focusing problem, and I certainly wasn't happy that the seller I purchased it from was prepared to brush me off and ignore the issue so easily. I'm also not that thrilled that Trademe seem completely powerless to do anything about it.
I am, however, happy that there is a fairly simple 'fix' for the issue. And that in completing the procedure it seems to have restored my lens to good health! Long may it continue...
This is the same exact heart breaking problem that I ended up having as well... Time fix it myself! Thanks for the post.
ReplyDeleteHow do you know if you have version one or version 2?
ReplyDeleteHi Rich. thanks for commenting on the post.
DeleteI 'assume' that the mark II version will have a 'II' listed somewhere after all the lens statistics printed somewhere around the rim of the lens? But that's only an assumption? Don't have the lens anymore to confirm or deny this. Google might help?
Cheers
Sure Tokina fixed it with version II? I've the version two (bought from another photographer) and the ring is on infinity (so really at the end) at a distance of 1.6m from the object... no chance to get a star sharp
ReplyDeleteHi Markus. I never got a Mark 2 version to test, I just 'heard' that the upgrade had fixed the issue. Guess not - unfortunately.
Delete